Following Huck Finn: Natchez

Pulling into Natchez we didn't know where to stay or what to see. We chose Natchez purely because it is well known for having many beautiful antebellum-period plantation homes. The city didn't really have a direct tie to Huckleberry Finn as far as we knew, outside of providing examples of period architecture. But we were soon pleasantly surprised.

After finding the cheapest motel in town we struck out in search for a place for a beer and some locals, Walker hoping to meet a musician, Logan hoping to find his Egglestonian moment. (W insists I write that he's rolling his eyes.)

Of all places we found help on Yelp! which recommended a quaint little bar called Under the Hill Saloon. Within minutes upon arriving we were found out for what we really were which was, "not from around here." That being said, this bar was clearly used to a revolving cast of strangers– the week before they played host to a group of Spaniards (whom, very much in the spirit of Huck and Tom, they baptized while one of them impersonated an ordained minister.) The week before that a well-known Scottish folk band gave an impromptu performance at the bar.

We quickly felt at home and found ourselves a lunch date at Mammy's Cupboard and a collaborator for Walker's music project. No description will do John David, the bartender, justice so I'll just let the picture of the man in the green bowler hat speak for itself. I will give you this: he insisted on being called the Godfather, it was consistently unclear whether he ever heard your order and even less clear what he was saying to you unless looking you directly in the eye.

After getting our plans in order for the next day, we fatefully headed towards Micky D's. (A mistake we will we never make again.)

MAMMY'S

Mammy's was unanimously recommended as a great restaurant to get southern food. Sixty years ago, it was called Black Mammy's Cupboard and Mammy was several shades darker. Now Mammy looks a little bit more like a Puerto Rican gay boy dressed for the pride parade. We're not trying to pick on Natchez here, the legacy of segregation exists in all American cities. It's more fascinating to us to see how Mammey has been adapted to the times– by both literally and metaphorically whitewashing her. All said, the food was excellent and the company was great. We highly recommended walking into Mammy's skirt and indulging in her sweet, sweet banana carmel pie.

FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH

Logan: While Walker was recording with Ben I took my bike through a few neighborhoods into downtown to see the church that Mark Twain used to go to when visiting the town. Ben found out from his Mom that this was in fact the church that Mark Twain used in the famous scene in The Adventures of Tom Sawyer where Tom and Huck are witness to their own funeral. AMAZING!

TALKIN'

Walker: Because I teach English to non-native speakers, I'm very fascinated by accents and pronunciation. I hear a tough accent and I think to myself, "Oh no, my students would never be able to understand you. Talk more clearly!" Much to the chagrin of ESL students all over the US, it's common in American English to substitute 'd' for 't' when it falls in the middle of a word before a vowel sound. Some examples you all know: We don't say 80s like ae-tees. We say ae-dees. 30= thir-dee. It's out of control how much this occurs in the deep south. I love it. For example, "oh my god, Betty you are so nasty" (actually heard this phrase) is going to be said like this, "oh my gaww, Beddyy yer so nasdee."

In Natchez (stress is on the first syllable not spread equally over the two.) It rhymes with matches. Logan took 'pitchers,' not 'pik-tures.'

I'm not gonna (relaxed going to when followed by a verb) bore ya (unstressed you) with more relaxed pronunciation talk, but it's been on my mind here in tha (unstressed the) south.

PEOPLE

Walker: When I'm traveling, I like the feeling of being an outsider. It was easy to feel that way in Natchez! Every introduction was prefaced with 'where ya from,' and seeing as we were from out of town, there were many introductions during the 36 hours we stayed there.

After recording all day with Ben, I went to eat at The Malt Shop by myself. After introductions, some discussion of New York and the menu, I explained to the cashier what I was doing in Natchez.
"I spent most of the day recording with a guy who plays down at Under The Hill Saloon. His name is Ben Lewis."

"yeah. I know Ben Lewis. That's my sister-in-law's first cousin."

I can't remember the actual relation anymore, but you get the idea.

The people we spent the most time talking with in Natchez, Candace and Ben, were not friends in the stricter sense of the word, but were nonetheless connected in many ways. Ben's older sister is a friend of Candace from high school, Candace frequents the bar where Ben plays, among a million other little connections like those. It was very easy to feel part of the fold here. After a couple of hours out, we were wise to little bits of gossip, former relationships, old friendships, newer friendships, etc. We slept in Ben's living room the second night but there was more than one offer to choose from.

Ben's girlfriend, Brynn, told us a very heartwarming story that I've imbedded here. She felt like it said a lot about Natchez.

nellys story